Stories from our Archive
The following are stories relating to the people, history and myth of Great Bernera
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2024 the 150th anniversary of the Bernera Riot
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Tell a story of Bernera by Peggy Morrison
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Letter from Townsend Rogers from US in his visit to the Isle of Lewis and Bernera on the eve of World War II
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Berisay Island - The last Hold out of Neil Macleod
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Neil Macleod and the Priam Golia
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Gaelic Prayer Meetings in Portsmouth
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Rescue of Gothia Crew
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A Short History of Voya Mhor
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Constructing the Bernera Road
2024 is the One Hundred and Fifty year anniversary of the 1874 Bernera Riot
Events leading up to the riot.
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For centuries the Bernera Crofters had the grazing and their summer shielings on the moor at Beann a Chuailean, stretching from the Uig road to the shores of Loch Langabhat and Coirgerod.
In 1872, after sporting estates had been established at Morsgail and Scaliscro, this land was taken from the Bernera crofters, and they were offered the moor between Earshader and the sea. This was not as extensive an area and although the crofters were not satisfied they agreed to accept the offer - indeed they could do little else in those days. They also had to agree to build a dyke (turf wall) of seven miles at their own expense between Scaliscro and the new grazing. The crofters signed or put their mark on papers to this effect read out to them by the Ground Officer, James Macrae. This stated that the Bernera men would have the right to the new ground at Earshader as long as they paid their rents and behaved in a lawful manner.
After only eighteen months, the Ground Officer returned to Bernera on the instruction of the Chamberlain of Lewis, Donald Munro, to inform the crofters that they were to lose the new moor, and be given Hacklete farm in Bernera instead. The crofters were angry with this; Hacklete, although fertile, was a much smaller area and would not support their grazing needs. They had fulfilled their part of the bargain, paying their rents and building the boundary dykes. Although they were warned that refusal would mean eviction they refused to agree to the terms.
On March 24th 1874, three men arrived by boat in Kirkibost. They were James Macrae ground officer Meavaig, Colin Maclennan, Sheriff Officer, and Excise man Peter Bain. They carried with them 57 summonses of removal from houses, crofts and grazing, indeed of all their possessions. In other words Notices of Eviction. These were delivered in Breaclete, Bosta and most of Tobson. As they made their way to Hacklete farm, where they were to spend the night, they realised that they were being followed by a group of young people who apparently threw clods of earth and small stones at them.
On reaching the farmhouse Colin Maclennan turned to the pursuers and said; “If I had my gun with me there would be mothers mourning in Bernera tonight”.
The next morning they returned to Tobson to deliver the last of the summons, and repeated this threat. While returning to their boat they were surrounded by a group of men, in angry mood, demanding an explanation. A scuffle broke out and the Officer’s oilskin was torn.
On his return to Stornoway Maclennan complained of having been seriously assaulted by a number of the islanders in revenge for having executed his duty, (in his own words he was wickedly and feloniously attacked and assaulted and surrounded in a violent and excited manner, seized hold of by the breast of collar or other parts of part of his person and was pulled and jostled and threated to kill him, and did seize him by his top coat, waterproof coat and leggings and did maliciously tear and destroy and render the same useless, by which he was put into a state of great terror and alarm and was injured in his person). A warrant was issued for the apprehension of the supposed ringleaders, Angus Macdonald, Norman Macaulay and John Macleod.
The day of the ‘Bernera Riot’ and its aftermath
On the 8th of April 1874 Angus Macdonald, said to be one of the Bernera men ringleaders involved in the disturbance, was in Stornoway on business. He was recognised and without warning suddenly pounced upon by two police constables and dragged to prison. Angus knowing he had committed no crime and not knowing he was even accused of having committed one objected to summary incarceration, especially after telling the officers if they would summons him he would appear in court at any time. The few townspeople who witnessed the arrest and subsequent resistance of the fisherman, naturally gathered round the police offers to ascertain the cause of the disturbance. The small crowd soon swelled into a large one, the joint procurators fiscal appeared upon the scene and ultimately sent for the sheriff. The crowd was several times asked by the latter to disperse, but failing to do so, he, fearing that the peace might be broken, read the Riot Act, after which the prisoner was conveyed to the police station.
Word of these happenings reached Bernera and whilst Angus was languishing in prison for his part in the fracas, and the Bernera people believed this was all part and parcel of the scheme to evict them from their lands and determined to take their grievance direct to the Proprietor Sir James Matheson to ascertain if he knew and approved of what was being done in his name,
Donald Macdonald “Dan” of 25 Valasay took it upon himself to go from house to house raising the people of Bernera. He is said to have told a man from Bosta:
“Bi 'n-àird, tha thusa gle bhlàth agus comhfhurtail ann an sinn 's do nàbaidh air leacan fuara ann am priosan Steòrnabhaigh”.
(“Get up, you're warm and comfortable there and your neighbour is on cold slabs in Stornoway Prison.”)
He sent boats to Carloway and Uig to muster more men until finally about 150 men were congregated at Garynahine. The piper, Iain Maclennan ‘Iain an Dròbhair’ from Kneep in Uig kept the group's enthusiasm alive during the long march to Stornoway.
Word of the imminent onslaught had reached the Stornoway police station so Angus was cleaned up, dressed in new clothes and released in the hope of stopping the marchers. The Procurator Fiscal, the Sheriff-Clerk and all the policemen in Stornoway led by Superintendent Donald Cameron met the mini-army at Manor Farm. He advised them to return home promising them that they would correct all the wrongs if they did. There were murmurings amongst the Bernera men for a while then Dan raised his voice saying:
“The police had many years to correct the wrongs and didn't do it, they won't do it now either, they don't have the authority.”
With these words they marched into Stornoway. They spent that night at Goathill and the following morning they made their way to the castle to meet with Sir James Matheson, to air their grievances to him in person. This was achieved and Sir James professed ignorance of what was being done in his name and promised to look into the whole affair. The men returned home in the same peaceful manor that they has march to Stornoway, with high hopes of justice.
The trial of the Bernera Rioters.
A few weeks later three Bernera men; Angus Macdonald, Norman Macaulay (both of Tobson) and Iain Macleod of Breaclete received summonses to appear in court to be charged with assault of Colin Maclennan, the Sheriff Officer. The case was heard on July 17th 1874 at Stornoway Sheriff Court.
The defense lawyer was Charles Innes of Inverness. Due to his brilliant defence and adroit questioning, in a trial that lasted until 10.00 pm, a ‘not guilty’ verdict was passed.
The full trial report can be read in Bernera Museum.
At the time exaggerated reports appeared in various newspapers regarding the alleged commission of certain lawless acts on the part of some of the crofters of Bernera. From these reports the public were led to believe that a riot of very serious nature, necessitating, it was at one time thought, the intervention of a military force had occurred.
What is clear is that no actual riot took place and infact other than Angus Macdonald it is unknown if any Bernera folk were even present at the time and location the Riot Act was read.
Donald Munro, the Chamberlain of Lewis at the time and the instigator of the above dealings with the Bernera crofters, was heartily disliked and feared throughout the whole island for his many tyrannical acts. This trial proved to be his downfall. He lost his many offices and died a pauper. Stories are still told of his many acts of petty tyranny, and his ignominious end is considered to be part of the justice secured at the trial.
This was the first rising by crofters in Scotland standing up for their rights and lead to the eventual passing of the Crofters Act of 1886.
The Bernera Riot is today commemorated by a cairn built of stones from every croft on Bernera and capped by stones from the crofts of the three men who stood trial.
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A story found in our archive, by Peggy Morrison and translated from an article that appeared in Gairm Magazine, which was a Gaelic print magazine published between 1951 and 2004
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The picture is the cemetery above the beach on Little Bernera as mentioned in the story.
Tell a Story about Bernera
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“Barraglom for porridge, Kirkibost for scones and Hacklete for big bannocks”
These words could often be heard in Bernera but there are four other villages there – Croir, Tobson, Valasay and Breaclete. Breaclete is the main village of the island, because it has the school, Post Office and two churches.
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Many years ago there was a church in Kirkibost, and why shouldn’t there be? Its name means the village of the church, and although no worship is held there today it has known different times. The walls of the church, which were built from big boulders, are still standing and it is easy enough to see them on a green knoll above the sea at the south end of the village. It was an ancestor of Donald who writes in Gairm who was one of the stonemasons who built the church.
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Near the church was a still-house where they made whisky that was so powerful that scarcely had a glass of it gone down a man’s throat than he was stumbling around like a dizzy sheep.
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A few yards from the still-house was a smithy. Smith after smith would come but they didn’t stay long because they all died suddenly. This is not so surprising because they all had the same wife. The smith’s wife was nothing but a mischief from the devil – with no conscience, with no shame and a tongue sharper than a pair of newly-sharpened shears, who in her own sly way caused disease (consumption) in her first three husbands. The fourth husband was the lad for the job. He got the better of her. He made her sit on the hot anvil and she was so badly burnt that she never recovered.
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Between the church, still-house and smithy it is little wonder that the Callanish folk were making a noise, wanting over to Bernera every day there was a service in the church. On Saturday as soon as it was light, the girls of Bernera were on their feet, looking out to see what the day was going to be like:
“Look out to see if there are showers
Look out to see if it is cold
With my dearest coming from Callanish”
On Saturday evening, after sprucing themselves up, the lads of Callanish that had transport would be in Bernera, having taken the ferry.
The girls would have food prepared for them. The lads from Callanish were no weaklings and they very much enjoyed food that put marrow in their backbones. They would eat their fill of a mixture of barley meal and suet that had been boiled in a cloth for six hours on the fire. The longer it was boiled the better it was. After the food was eaten the fun started and they visited from house to house. It wasn’t long before the lads got an invitation to spend the night under somebody’s roof.
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On the Sabbath morning the old men and their wives would take the ferry to the church. They left the children at home but not without warning about “Di-luain a bhreabain” (Monday of chastisement- when they would be whacked with the sole of a shoe. They were very apt to get into mischief on a Sunday and their parents did not like to chastise them until Monday)
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The old men of Callanish did not come empty-handed but came with full tobacco pouches – and it was well worth their while coming, for although the seats were hard and the sermon dry they didn’t mind because a good reward was awaiting them. When the church dispersed there was a horn filled with whisky waiting for everybody able to swap it for tobacco. This went on for many years but even more so when Mr Hugh (Mgr Uisdean) became minister for the parish of Uig. Although Mr Hugh stayed in Uig he had to hold a service on the fourth Sabbath of every month in the Kirkibost church.
The minister was a big strong man and he wasn’t a bad preacher either. He would bang the pulpit a lot, and he was not short of words – he could preach for two hours without tiring. It was easy to get to know him too, as the crew of the ferry who brought him over found out. The first bad day they had with strong winds and a rough sea, the crew were bedraggled with the cold, they weren’t far from the shore when Mr Hugh crouched over and opened the first bottle. Mr Hugh kept bottle after bottle for them until they reached Uig, and each dram that the crew took they would say;
“..my aren’t you a fine minister”
Don’t believe that Mr Hugh left himself empty!
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On another day, during the sermon an unusual noise was heard coming from the sea. Mr Hugh asked one of the men to go out and see what it was. Word came back that the porpoises were going past. Mr Hugh took one leap to the door shouting;
“Out with you, you can get a sermon any day but it is not everyday you can get porpoises”
Everything went topsy-turvy. The commotion that followed was worse than if forty Alsatian dogs were at each other’s throats to see who would get the best bite of a two-year old wether.
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Mr Hugh, like every other minister, held a baptismal service every now and again. One day he had eight children to baptize – seven boys and one girl. He baptized the boys first and then when he came to te girl he started; “I baptize you in the name of the father etc” but he finished “you were born never to be without a man”
After a while Mr Hugh and some of his congregation fell out. Mr Hugh didn’t think he got the respect due to his profession – and maybe he didn’t. He didn’t ever keep communion from anybody, but it was only two people in the parish of Uig that the next minister saw fit to sit at the Lord’s table. Let that be as it may, what I say is that many a hearty night went by in many houses listening to Tomod Dhaibhidh (deceased) telling stories about Mr Hugh.
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I don’t know where Mr Hugh went when he left Uig – but it was said that it was from the Isle of Skye he came. It was also said that he was closely related to Kenneth Stewart who had the tack of Hacklete. I know full well that Kenneth Stewart came from the Isle of Skye at the end of the 18th century. Certainly one of his relatives came with him and he was a minister – the Rev Hugh Macleod – is this Mr Hugh?
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Kenneth Stewart’s house in Hacklete was where Seoras Chaluim an Taillear’s house is today. Kenneth was a good farmer and he married Mary Smith “Mairi nic a Ghobhainn” from Earshader. They had a big family but none of them stayed in Bernera but one daughter called Catriona. This was Catriona Stewart who married ‘an Domhnallach (John Macdonald) a’ Chaolais. This was around 1844. ‘an Domhnallach built Tigh a Chaolais in Croir before he was married because he had Croir and Little Bernera. It was in Tigh a’ Chaolais that his children were brought up and it was there he died in 1880. It was ‘an Domhnallach that was King of Borva in the book “A Princess of Thule” and it was one of his daughters, although none of them were named Sheila, that was Sheila in the book.
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William Black who wrote the book lived at one time in Tigh a Chaolais. It was around 1870 – three years before the book was published – that he made his last trip there. It was very difficult to get to the Caolas and William Black himself said it was easier for him to go to Iceland. It is because of “Thule” the old name for Iceland and the name of a town there even until today, that the book was named. It is Bosta that is Borvabost in the book. William Black was in Bosta many times. He would be going with ‘an Domhnallach’s daughters over to Bosta to visit Aonghas Mairi and Aonghas Buidhe.
Tigh a Chaolais still stands just like it was over 100 years ago. It stands at the mouth of Kyles of Little Bernera in Croir, and at the end of the house the road to Bosta goes to the left. It is Iain Maciver “Iain Thormoid Bhig” who has the house today.
There is nobody from the family of ‘an Domhnallach and Cathriona Stewart in Lewis today apart from two families of great-grandchildren – a family in Kirkibost and a family in Carloway.
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‘an Domhnallach himself, his wife and four of his children are buried in a chapel in the graveyard on Little Bernera. This graveyard is on a little hill above the beach – Traigh an Teampull (Temple beach) where Gealchos many years ago was gathering shells. On their deathbeds all of ‘an Domhnallach and Catriona Stewart’s family was wanting back to Tigh a Chaolais where they were born and raised. Because of this, three years ago, there was a memorial of the ones not in the chapel put on the chapel wall. One of the sons wanted a hole left in the chapel wall so that he could watch the boats go by.
“Although I’m not in Little Bernera
Don’t believe it’s not my wish
I’d rather be now facing
And watching the stones of the stack”
There you have the end of the story!
Letter donated to Bernera Museum by Abby Freeley written by her father from Buffalo, New York about his visit to Scotland and the Hebrides just before the breakout of World War Two.
He went back to America and later joined the American Army serving the in Pacific during the war. Abby lives in Suffolk and visited Bernera in May 2022 for the first time, following her fathers footsteps.
Transcript of letter from Townsend Rogers to his father in USA, written between 23-30 August 1939]
Ultimately Aug. 30th
Dear Dad,
From Inverness I went down to Loch Ness & half way up a most beautiful wild and twisted glen to Buntait where I spent the night in a sheepherd’s [sic] cottage. Fine people, neat & clean. The woman has a son in Buffalo. Next morning going back towards Loch Ness I met a man who said war would soon be declared. Further on where the Glen meets Loch Ness I viewed Urquhart Castle (Fairy like spot sticking out into the Ness). The custodian there prophesied war too and on I passed down to [Invermoriston?] where I took the glen road over towards the west coast, a narrow bad road which climbs steadily for 24 miles and then falls to the sea loch in 2. It has much of the aspect of Wyoming. Make the mts [mountains] more rugged, plant trees, animals & there it is. Y.H. [Youth Hostel] at Dunvegan head of loch. Warden wanted a paper. All fear war and yet it being the first I heard of it - no affect [sic] on me – on I press. This was Aug. 23 on a Wednesday.
Thursday I set off early down a narrow winding road (gravel) on a perfect morning. The mts [mountains] behind me were misty vague and the air was fresh. As I passed a house, an old man called out “Fine morning; It is that” I called and the war has not troubled me yet. At the end of the road I caught up with a foul type of Aberdeen Scot waiting for the ferry. Conceited post man. Bullet headed, cheerful, I know how to do it best. Oh just being cheerful. By & by the ferry came – a power boat with room for cycles & people and possibly dogs & sheep.
There was a castle occupied by the chief of the MacLeans (Dornie). Towards Kyle of Lochalshe [sic] we pushed our bikes up hill and then coasted down into the little port. The Aberdeen fellow was also going to Skye and my patients [sic] was about run out. So as there was a ship across the Quay I decided to take it instead. She went to Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis. While waiting for sailing time, I was advised by a man from whom I bought a map to go to London & get the first ship for the U.S.A. Only my trip was just beginning to be romantic so I disregarded it.
Aug 28th
Here sits calmly an American Citizen on the Isle of Lewis, a pretty spot too, while the world goes smack to hell. Other than a vague wonder whether he will ever see his own his native land again, he has no worries. Even this hardly troubles him. The Spot is elegy.
In the four days he has been here all the men from 21 to 35 with a few exceptions will have left to join the fleet.
Determination is the islander. They hate quietly, none the less strongly, Hitler. They shall fight. This mad man can no longer exist. No question about it.
The only visible regret of the 300 men who left Sunday night was that it was Sunday – no liquor. Nevertheless, the crowd smelt like any Highland distillery.
Days that probably shake the world & I know nothing of it. My poor family is probably worried sick, but I can’t. This is too beautiful a spot.
Last night the ship sailed without lights. 300 men and civilians too on one little ship. They say they took over.
Funny all this crisis and I can’t collect myself enough to wright [sic] about it. Tired.
Now I’m in London and shall start over.
In Stornoway I spent one night in a very old but fixed up hotel with old inn atmosphere, meaning that Proprietor and guests sat around the peat fire as people are theoretically supposed to sit around their fires in college dormitories. Stornway is very beautiful with its fishing fleet and houses in red, white and other soft colors reflected in the inner harbor. Across this is a large and beautiful castle surrounded by trees – the only woods on the island. Small and out of the way as the place is, it is a wide awake and lively place. When a ship comes in (one or two a day) the bustle of loading & unloading on the small quay makes it seem like the busiest port of the world.
On the little vessel going over, while I was standing talking to a man going home for holiday, a native fisherman came up to pass the time of day. On learning that I was American & out to see the world, he gave me the address of some people who live on a little island on the west coast of Lewis nearly straight across from Stornoway called Great Bernera. He said they might put me up.
Thus it was that I set out on Friday across the island to find my way on road not marked on my map. Except for isolated villages there was nothing but peat bog, stacks of peat, lakes (1/3 of the island being covered with water), heather, and misty mts. towards the south. The whole presents such a scene of windswept desolation as to make a foreigner feel as though mystically transported to another planet. When I pulled to the side of the rd and got off to let one of the 4 cars which I saw in the 30 miles pass, the ground from being boggy giggled [jiggled?] up and down. In each of these cars was one or two naval reservists in uniform going to join the fleet.
When coasting down a hill through the only village I passed between the E. and W. coast, I saw the most beautiful woman since the English lady in Paris. All the people here are good looking and show either Norse, Spanish or Celtic characteristics plainly. Only a few, like Americans, are of indeterminant origin. Later on I saw several other attractive girls. One was young (18 perhaps) and like most inhabitants bare footed. This particular girl had a baby slung on her hip by means of a tartan rug.
Great Bernera is in a bay of the main island and to get to the ferry I took the wrong road. Before the old lady of whom I asked the way would put me straight, it was necessary to partake of tea & scones and gossip. Nearly every family (more than 2/3) have relatives in America so that an American is like a long lost brother. After an hour’s visit (It was then 3 o’clock, I having eaten sandwiches amongst Druid stones) I again set out on a paved road not on the map & which later became gravel.
The ferry to the island consisted of a rowboat manned by a nice old duck who then had little to say. The road on the other side passed E and W from and to [the] end of the 3 or 4 mile bit of ground. While going through the biggest village, the fisherman of the boat dashed out of a cottage and walked along with me for about a mile. He spoke little English and I no Gaelic; so we got along fine. We planned an expedition for Sunday over to Little Bernera where there is an ancient cemetery – 1,000 years old or more. However, I deemed it expedient to leave on that day and I shall never see him again. Just before we parted, we met an old old lady who spoke but 3 or 4 words of English standing by her block [black] house. She gave us buttermilk.
A block [sic] house is made of stone and is usually 30 or 40 feet long and 20 feet wide on the outside – the walls being about 5 or 6 feet high. Because the walls are 5 to six feet thick they are really quite small internally. The roof is of thatch and held down against the Atlantic gales by a net weighted with rocks. They usually have four windows besides two or three holes in the roof to let out the smoke. From propriety, I did not ask to inspect an occupied one, but judging from a ruined one, there could not have been much to see. For heat a peat fire, like a camp fire, burns on the floor under the holes in the roof. Obviously some of the smoke (just a little) goes out through the holes. Fortunately there are few of these houses left – most or all of the others being quite attractive, whitewashed cottages with slate roofs.
At the very end of the road sheltered by a cliff and 200 yards from the sea is Thule House – the place in which I spent two nights. It is large and roomy, comfortable, and presided over by Mrs Malcolm MacDonald. At 5 or so I presented myself at the door and she said “We have never turned anyone away yet.” Tea was good and all things nice. The water there is dark brown from the peat and soft as silk. In winter the sea spray is flung over the house and the well tastes salty.
These people operate a general store (unique in Bernera) and are quite wealthy – the son and head of the house has a truck and interests in such things as lobster ponds. The only radio on the island is owned by them and in the evening at 7 P.M. people come from far and wide to hear the news broadcast. (It was there that I got my wind up from the crisis). Among the people who called was a retired baker who had spent 30 years in America. He returned at the time of the war and said he thought we had then seen our best years for a long time to come. I’m inclined to agree with him. We had a great time bulling[?] about the States for by now I feel like quite an exile.
The evenings there are breathtaking. The spot is north of 58 and on the edge of the midnight sun area. To the south in the eve twilight are the vague shapes of mountains and when the sea is calm and the moon full, as it was for me, the shore of the rocky islands stand out from a silvery boundary caused by moonlight on the slightly broken *windless* water*.
Next day I walked over to the other side and back before lunch. While returning I met a small boy and old cripple who between them collected enough English to ask me if I had seen the Bull. I hadn’t. Still it was a startling question as they seemed pretty shy of meeting it. When we did come upon him, they really got nervous. However, the sleepy climate, which affects all there, had had its influence on the terrible taureau. No self-respecting bull would have been as docile as he & we passed safely through a gate.
In the afternoon two lobstermen rowed me to where there [sic] boat was anchored and then after a chore or two around the head of the island from where I walked back. It was only a little row boat with a red sail for going with the wind and we took it through the damnedest places. Although the sea seemed dead calm, there was a respectable ground swell which caused a few hundred sq feet of foam to exist here and there and also sucking currents and spray as it crashed against the rock. At one time we were wet by spray from two sides as we passed through a short cut non existant [sic] at low tide. Since almost no accidents occur, I deemed it entirely safe.
They were awfully nice men – simple and quiet. We spelled each other at the oars and their only comment and I think, quite a compliment was – “This isn’t the first time he has rowed.” None of us had much to say and in the silences, one or other would say slowly and softly, “Oh, yes, yes” in a conversation gap that seems to be a universal saying there. As a cargo we had a pale [sic] of tar which leaked a little and got on a rope making all in all a rather dirty mess. The trial of Job was in his voice as one said “Oh – my - my” over twice – evidently strong cursing for the islands. They put me ashore and we shook hands saying we would never meet again. I can’t get over how affected they were by it.
Concerning their lobster fishing – they have 20ft sailboats of an amazingly heavy construction and almost completely flush decked over. They look similar to the ones in the painting to the right of Grandfather’s fireplace. In these boats they go when lobstering up to a week without going ashore and come back with 3 or 4 hundred big ones. They then put them in a pond until the price rises in London – clever. Like almost everything else on the islands, the ponds are constructed of stone. They are built at low water on the rocky bottom in circular shape about 6 or 8 feet high in a sheltered bay. The lobsters then have several hours of water per tide. Among there [sic] equipment which is like the Maine fisherman’s, they have floats to support nets for temporary storage. They are made from vellum and resemble Esquamos [sic] property in both appearance and clever construction.
After good byes, a letter to a tweed merchant in Stornoway, and the promise that I would send them a card if I managed ever to get home, I pedalled off. Stornoway was a mad house, with 300 men going forth to (they truly think) a war. It was Sunday and they were sore gripped that all saloons were closed.
Intermission
On the way back the ferryman had changed into his Sunday things and could not change my shilling. He owes me 4 pence and would hardly let me go except I promised him to come back after the war.
End of Intermission.
Since the boat showed signs of being a mad house (interesting change that) I decided to stay till Monday night. As it is the decision was good for they took over the ship, broke into store rooms, and generally raised merry hell. Seeing them off as said above was like seeing men off to war. At any rate that was the town’s attitude who were there with me singing Gaelic laments.
Monday the unrest was considerable. No one new [sic] anything except from terse news flashes as all papers there were three days late or more. It was then that I kicked myself for a fool for not returning on the same night I hit the island. On the trip to Kyle of Lockalsh and down to London tension was worse for people knew less and less, we could see anti-aircraft batteries, set up near factories as we passed, and the crack express was four hours late at Euston. While standing on a siding for an hour, rumors grew like fungus. The two explanations were 1) hostilities had broken out, 2) I.R.A. bomb. The explanation was a flooded tunnel.
To take up the thread again, on Monday when I sailed for the mainland there was more excitement though fewer people were sailing. It was nearly the last batch of able-bodied men left. No one to fish, no one to dig peat, winter coming. They remember the hardships of the last war. There was besides women and children, old men and cripples, small boys, a very good piper band at the dock. They played marches and a few lamments [sic], the like of which sends your spine out. Emotion ran very high. So now I have seen and been seen practically off to war.
I was up for roughly 36 hours. Yet it was worth it. The Minch on a moonlight night is worth seeing. Eleanor can probably tell you of the magic of a northern sea.
And finally London & the first letter from home since the 18th of July. Needless to say the complete washing away of any anxiety possible was very nice. Another happy thing is the lack or less tension here. Since people know, the place is fairly quiet as to crises. People go quite quietly by baloon barages [sic] etc without a break in their conversation. All over (at Stornoway, and here, on the train) the attitude is determination. They anticipate a hideous slaughter and yet there is no question of what they will do if anything happens. They put up a good fight and will I think win.
I’m glad all is well at home and that things in general have turned out well if not superlative. My great good fortune – as though I had much minutely planned plans – is still good. About eleven I wondered [sic] into the American Express office to see about getting home. Now all tourist and especially 3rd class sections of all boats are jammed. No German booking is transferable to other liner. Further 3rd class people who have later bookings can’t shift them ahead and also are nearly out of money or there [sic] tours are to be over soon. But a few cabin class accommodations were left on one boat sailing the 1st of Sept. – the Arandora Star [sic]. She was specially put on for the crisis and not been open for bookings for six hours when I got the third or fourth last bunk. Hot damn! Sailing Friday, be home on the 9th or 10th. If it weren’t for most of my countrymen being broke and the exchange no good, I might not be sailing at all. As it is it cost me $25 leaving me just about $50. Luck. If the crisis had held off a little I should have spent it on some ‘best’ tailored suit and first edition. The French ticket will be recoverable when I get to America.
I shall try to get this letter off either by air or on one of the three ‘refugee’ ships tomorrow. If on bored [sic] I should find myself with enough money, I will cable you anyway. I think it would be nice if perhaps you could maybe possibly get Aunt V to meet me at the boat if you can find out its exact landing time with a little dough to see me to Buffalo. It might not be necessary. But on the other hand up to now I’ve been so successful that I should hate to be embarrassed in my own country.
Please thank Granny and Eleanor for their letter. Tell Granny I probably won’t be able to due [sic] all she suggested in tomorrow. Eleanor is getting to wield quite a pen these days. And last of all regards to all and much love. Maybe I’ll be beating this letter home.
Love
Towny
Berisay Island - Last Holdout of Neil Macleod
Neil Macleod was an illegitimate son of Roderick, the last of the Macleod
chiefs of Lewis. Roderick had three legitimate and five illegitimate sons who, before and after his death, fought between themselves and later with the new lords appointed by King James VI in 1598, ‘The Men of Fife’.
Neil and his brother Murdo made life so difficult for these colonists that in 1610 they sold their title, writs and charters to Mackenzie of Kintail for 10,000merks, Mackenzie was a friend and ally of Roderick eldest so Torquil Conanach.
Neil Macleod had used the Island of Berisay, in Loch Roag off Great Bernera, as a safe haven and stored supplies there for times of need. In 1610 he and a band of followers retreated there to escape from Mackenzie and held out for three years. During that time they would raid Mackenzie lands in Lewis and also became successful sea-robbers (or pirates). As Berisay is a natural island fortress the Mackenzies were unable to eject or capture Macleod even though the Privy Council in Edinburgh wanted it so.
In 1613 Mackenzie was about to give up when a final diabolical plan was hatched. His men rounded up wives, children and relatives of the men on Berisay and at low tide rowed them out to a Skerry close to Berisay and left them there to drown as the Skerry would we covered at high tide. The men on Berisay could not watch these innocents die and so left Berisay and were captured by Mackenzie.
Taken to Edinburgh Neil Macleod faced trial on 30th March 1613, charged with fire-raising, burning, murder, theft and piracy. He confessed to all crimes and was sentenced to be hanged and his head to be struck from his body and set upon a spike above Nether Bow Port. This was carried out in April of that year.
Today on Berisay there can still be seen outlines of rectangular buildings and some traces of earlier circular ones, there is also a man-made rainwater lochan. The island is still difficult to land on with the feel of being the Island Fortress.
Neil Macleod and the Priam Gold
While holding up on Berisay between 1610 and 1613 Neil Macleod got a reputation for being a pirate. One day he spotted a ship named Priam captained by Peter Love, another pirate based in the Isle of Man, heading for Kirkibost It is not known why the Priam was making for Kirkibost but it became reasonable to Neil Macleod to assume that here was an opportunity for him to benefit from whatever misfortune caused the Priam to seek safety.
It is not clear if he befriended Captain Love or he decided to plunder the cargo but he gained control of the vessel by fair or foul means with many of the crew trying to escape onto Great Bernera. Those that survived were rounded up and handed over to the constabulary. They were then taken to Edinburgh and brought to trial for murder and piracy on the high seas. They were found guilty and hanged in Leith.
Neil Macleod had hoped that by handing the ship over to the authorities he may gain a pardon for whatever unlawful exploits he and his followers had been up to during the preceding years. This was not to be the case.
On board the Priam was a considerable amount of gold and silver amassed during their exploits in the Atlantic. Some of this hoard was plundered in turn by Neil Macleod and his cohorts. Some of the local lads were arrested for looting and impressed into the army - a standard punishment at the time for miscreants.
Legend has it that as two of these young men detained buried there shares close to each other on at a place 'A Ghrianan bhig on Great Bernera. It is thought that in the early 1800's one of the pots of gold was found but the finder, not knowing what was in the pot, asked a passing Irish tinker if he had seen anything like that before and if it had any value. The peddler, rubbing his hands in glee said he had no idea what the contents were, but that he would do him a favour and take the pot and the value of its contents back to him on his return visit, and as a gesture of goodwill would leave him a pair of boots to be paid for on his return. Needless to say the peddler was never seen again.
The other pot of gold has, so far as we know, never been found.
GAELIC PRAYER MEETINGS IN PORTSMOUTH
​
IN the summer of 1939 the dark clouds of the threat of war were causing a lot of silent anxiety in many homes in Lewis and Harris, especially due to the fact that in most homes they had many sons eithers in the RNR or the other branches of the Armed Forces.
The rural postmen came as usual with their mail, when lo and behold, mobilisation papers were delivered to a limited number of RNR's in every parish. Some of them left that night, the Thursday night of the Stornoway Communion, the remainder of the draft leaving the following night.
It was however on Sunday that the main body of over 200 left and the departure scene on Stornoway pier is worth recording.
The pier was packed with people who had come to see the RNR's leaving and to give them their blessing.
Tense silence prevailed as the RNR's picked up their kit bags and silently went aboard the Lochness. This tense silence was broken when the late Mr Peter Macdonald (Padraig Beag), of *Mor Monadh', Matheson Road, Stornoway, who was a native of Bernera, raised his voice and started singing the 46th Psalm to the tune of 'Stroud Water'. Everyone on the pier joined in the singing which has been described by many who were present as carrying unusual solemnity. Before the singing concluded, the Lochness, with its valuable load of passengers, slowly moved out and there has always been a question in many minds, did any branch of the Armed Forces in any place in Britain leave their homes under such prayerful and solemn influences as the Lewis RNR were privileged to have on that Sabbath night?
All the RNR's in the general service were drafted either to Chatham, Portsmouth or Devonport, while those in the Patrol Service were drafted to Lowestoft. Once they got into barracks, they were immediately drafted to Armed Merchant Cruisers and to other ships which were to be commissioned to full complement.
As I was a Portsmouth rating, I shall discuss the start of the Gaelic church services in Portsmouth and how they continued till the end of the war.
In May 1940, the first move was made to hold Gaelic meetings in Portsmouth as by that date some men who were church members had been drafted from the Northern Patrol to Portsmouth and likewise some from various ships sunk by enemy action. Quite unknown to us, both the Free Church Presbytery and the Church of Scotland Presbytery had made an agreement that jointly they would send a minister from both denominations in turn to give Gaelic services to seamen in their respective depots.
Balallan Minister in Portsmouth
It was our very good fortune in Portsmouth to have the late Rev. Murdo Macleod, of the Church of Scotland, Kilmuir, Skye. He was a native of Balallan and we had him for one month. He was given permission to use a small church building at the far end of the parade ground near the signal school for holding his services.
Every evening there was a Gaelic service and two services on Sunday. The following who were very able Gaelic precentors and who were church members used to lead the singing, Murdo Martin, of Aridhabhruaich, Lochs, now Rev. Murdo Martin (retired), Donald Mackenzie, of Grimshader, Lochs (Domhnuill lain Rob), William Maclean, of Shawbost (Uilliam lain Domhnaill lain), John Macdonald, of Portnaguran, Point (lain an t-Saighdear). All the normal tunes sung at home were sung, Bangor, Wallsal, Torwood, Coleshill, Kilmarnock, etc., not fogetting Stornoway.
The singing was always very good. When the above mentioned were on duty and unable to attend, Donald Macleod, of Doune, Carloway, Domhnaill Neill Coilich, deceased, Neil Macleod, of Doune, Carloway, and Kenneth John Smith, of Earshader, used to lead the singing. They were not church members at that time.
The other church members who were in constant attendance were as follows: Norman Morrison, of Scalpay, latterly the Rev. Norman Morrison, of Duirinish, Skye, Angus Macaulay, of Breasclete, Roderick Montgomery, of Ranish, Angus Macleod, of Calbost (Boydie), John Mackenzie, of Point (Cox), John Matheson, of Portnaguran, Donald Maciver, of Carloway, John MacNaughton, of Bernera, latterly the Rev. John MacNaughton, of Barvas and Portnalong, Skye, Donald Mackenzie, of Laxay (Domhnaill Chalum Ruaidh), Donald Matheson, of Bernera, Alexander Macleod, of Sheshader, Point, Murdo Nicolson, of Uig, and Angus Mackay, of Ness, latterly the Rev. A. Mackay, of P.P. Manse, Tarbert, Harris, and Roderick Mackay, of Tolsta Chaolais.
Murdo Macleod gave us one month of very valued service and before he left (as we now had permission to use the church in which the services were held), he made an appeal that we should continue meeting until we got another minister to supply.
He left the church members in charge to continue the work. It was again our very good fortune to have the services of the late Rev. Murdo Campbell, of Partick Highland, Glasgow, and his services were very much appreciated. After the Rev. Mr CampbelPs departure, we were for some time without a minister but the Gaelic prayer meetings were regularly held by members and adherents from all denominations were praiseworthy in their attendance.
Air Raid after Gaelic Service
It was most wonderful that during the late summer, autumn and winter of 1940, when were continually bombed, nothing ever interfered with us during the evening church service. It happened on a few occasions that an air raid would be in the Portsmouth area shortly after the Gaelic service ended.
Our next minister was the Rev. Mr Macaulay from Sutherlandshire and we had him for the autumn of 1940. After his departure the church members continued to hold the evening service and it was very evident that there was a real sense of liberty present among the brethren. In 1941, the late Rev. Murdo MacSween, of Church of Scotland, Kinloch, was settled in Portsmouth with the rank of Naval Chaplain and was there for two years or more. On once occasion he held a 'Coinneamh Cheist' and it was Norman Morrison, of Scalpay, latterly the Rev. Norman Morrison, of Diminish, Skye, who gave the text for discussion. It was Colossians, Chapter 2, Verse 2, "Uime sin ar a ghab sibh dour ionnsuidh an tighearna losa Criosd, gluaisibh ann". Mr MacSween opened the Question and the following were called on to speak. Donald Matheson, of Bernera, John Macdonald, of Portnaguran, William Maclean, of Shawbost, and Angus Macaulay, of Breasclete. Rev. Mr MacSween closed the Question, and after the end of the war he mentioned that the Gaelic 'Coinneamh Cheist' in Portsmouth was one of the most enjoyable services he ever conducted.
As Portsmouth was a depot, some church members could only be in Barracks for a very short period, but that small church opened for Gaelic services in May 1940 was never without an evening service by the Gaelic speaking RNR's until the end of the war.
It can be put on record that there were odd times when there were not enough church members to hold the prayer meeting, but in the event of this happening, converted adherents who were not communicant members used to assist in public prayer.
Among them were John Macdonald, of Crossbost, and Alexander Macleod, of Sheshader. By the end of the war it was the Rev. Mr Macaulay from Uist who was appointed chaplain and his services were appreciated. The Gaelic services in Portsmouth are still very fragrant in the memory of those who attended and took part, and although dark and cloudy were these days still we had evidence that the Gospel of Jesus Christ was uplifting our hearts and leading us on.
Many and varied were the Christian experiences of these praying men in Portsmouth and many were the refreshing moments we had in that church. The comment of two unconverted young men who had come out of the Gaelic prayer meeting was, "Tha iad a cheart cho math ris na bodaich aig an tigh".
The attendance of all those who were not church members was very good and we do not remember anyone who did not attend either from Lewis or Harris. We regret to say that many districts in Lewis and Harris nowadays could do with the attendance.
From “Eilean an Fhraoich” 1989
Rescue of the Gothia crew
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In January 1940 'Gothia' a Swedish steamer was torpedoed off Rockall and sank almost immediately. She had a crew of 23 and 2 lifeboats. Three crew members were killed on impact - nine presumed lost as they were in one of the lifeboats of which there was no further trace. The remaining eleven sailed near to the east of Lewis when they were spotted by men in Bernera.
Angus 'Tuaram' Macdonald 8 Croir was home on leave and joining in the preparations for the wedding of a Croir lassie called Effie Mackenzie.
Having seen the course that the boat was taking he flashed a Morse code message to them, telling them to change course for the Lighthouse on Laimishader. Tuaram and two other men rowed out to where they had seen the lifeboat but after a search of two hours amongst the skerries and small islands they found nothing and returned home.
Tuaram however could not leave it at that and decided to make a second attempt. He took Roddy Ferguson 5 Croir and John Murdo Mackenzie 3 Croir with him and they made for Laimishader. Before they reached there, they spotted the boat in a cove, in danger of breaking up against the rocks. One crewman was ashore, evidently having tried to fend off the boat but a heavy swell had carried it further up the cove. Most of the crew were lying in the bottom of the boat, quite exhausted. With the sea and tide running as they were, it would have been only a matter of hours before the boat was broken up.
Two other members of the crew had gone up to the light to seek assistance, so John Murdo went to find them while Tuaram and Roddy tried to get the lifeboat off the rocks. Roddy took the small boat to a spot where it would be possible to get the men embarked, while Tuaram put up the sail of the lifeboat. They set off for Croir towing the small boat behind them.
When they reached Croir, they roused the village. Fires were stoked and blankets supplied for the survivors. They had to be lifted from the lifeboat into the small boat to be ferried ashore. The Captain was seriously injured so a stretcher was improvised using the sail and he was thus brought ashore. They were all taken into Effie's house amid the wedding preparations. Everyone was willing to help, Effie among the busiest - she got no sleep that night. The uninjured were billeted around the village, hot food, dry clothing and bedding provided. Apparently Tuaram even shaved the two men he took in!
The nurse arrived and dressed the wounds and later Dr Maclennan came to offer his services. In the afternoon Provost Mackenzie, the Swedish Vice-Consul and Mr Murdo Maclean of the Shipwrecked Mariners Society arrived to organise the transport of the crew to Stornoway.
The wedding preparations and the care of the wounded carried on simultaneously, but the wedding was postponed for an hour so the man would not be disturbed by the celebrations. The two small cars and a bus ferried the guests to the wedding and the survivors to the ferry at the south end of Bernera.
Tuaram was given charge of the steamers documents which he handed to the Vice-Consul. He then went to the wedding feast. He had only arrived home on leave the night before, having travelled for two days ending with a four mile walk home. He got two hours sleep that night, and that was all for the next four days.
Folke Pehris, spokesman for the crew, told his story to the Gazette and repeatedly expressed their gratitude for the rescue and the hospitality and kindness shown to them in Bernera.
Legend has it that the lifeboat was gifted to the village as a thank you gesture from Sweden, but no-one now is sure what happened to it.
​
A SHORT HISTORY OF VOYA MHOR (there are other spellings)
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At the entrance to Loch Roaig, there is the island of Great Bernera, and surrounding the island of Great Bernera, there are a group of other islands that were once inhabited, and they are as follows:
Little Bernera; Pappay; Voya Mhor: and Ceartaidh. There are written records to certify that all these islands were inhabited, but the only evidence available regarding Ceartaidh is the ruins of two homes and the markings of the graves.
Of the remainder, Voya Mhor, off the south west corner of Bernera, is the island that had more inhabitants than any of the others. For in the year 1807 we find that the following families had their home on the island:
Murdo Maclean, Neil Macleod, Norman Nicolson and Rory Stewart.
In the census records of 1841 we have on record, seven homes with more than forty inhabitants, and they are as follows:
1. Finlay Macleod, Christina, John, Callum, Angus, and Margaret.
2. Angus Martin, Catherine and Callum with Donald Maclennan, Henny Matheson and Donald Macdonald, as servants.
3. Murdo Smith, Catherine Angus, Ann, and Norman, along with Christina Macleod, Kenny, Marion Mary, and Donald. (They appear to share the home with the
Smiths)
4. John Morrison, Isabella and Alex.
5. John Macleod, Mary, John, Henny, Christina, Donald, Mary and Marion, with Murdo Maclennan, and Rachel Macdonald, as servants.
6. Angus Maclean, Margaret, Callum, and Margaret.
7. Murdo Morrison, Marion, Norman, Christina and Donald.
All the homes were assembled attached to one another, and most of their walls are still in a good state of repair. Their houses were erected on the north-east side of the island, and below the homes on the east side, there is a beautiful sandy beach, while on the west side there is a beautiful bay, with a beach full of pebbles, and this bay is a favourite spot for fishing saith and cud¬dies in autumn and early winter.
The plots that the inhabitants used for planting potatoes, oats and barley are still clearly noticeable, while a small point north of their homes is known as "Rudha na h-Atha", and it was there they had their kiln for preparing their grain for grinding into meal.
The well that they used for drinking water is still clearly visible, and was in a good state of repair when last seen many years ago.
It would appear that the inhabitants did a lot of fish¬ing, for fish was on their door step, but there is no doubt, that in winter they would be isolated, for the channel on both sides of the island, both east and west, would, at times, be so stormy that a crossing would be impossible.
Some of the islanders got their peat supply from the mainland, for there is one spot west of Aird Tornish, which still has the name “Ait Moine Clann Iain Oig”, and it was there that “Clann Iain Oig”, of Voya Mhor cut their supply of peats.
Clann lain Oig, were Macleods and settled in Enaclete. There is another point in Voya Mhor called "Rudha na Moine" and no doubt some families cut their peats there. With such a good covering of heather and grass their livestock would pasture well on the island.
It appears that the island was cleared in the early forties, and some of the islanders were settled in various parts of Lewis such as Geshader, Ungishader and Balallan, while some of them emigrated to Canada in 1851, where their descendants are still traceable. The late Mr Malcolm Smith of 2 Earshader who died in the spring of 1919, remembered being on the fore-shore at Earshader as a young boy and the islanders of Voya Mhor passing through the Earshader channel in their boat.
There are a few stories worthwhile relating con¬nected with the island, and they are as follows:
There was a certain man in Bernera named Malcolm Macarthur, and he was taken into the army prior to 1800. Before leaving for the army, the 78th Foot, he visited Voya Mhor to bid goodbye to his friends. In one home that he visited there was a baby girl in a cradle, and on leaving this house he lifted the baby girl in his arms and said, "you are the one that I shall marry when I shall come home from the army.
Malcolm Macarthur spent some twenty years in the army and served in the Napeolonic Wars, and on getting his release from the army, he married the baby girl he left in the cradle in Voya Mhor and their descendants are still in Bernera.
The second story is, that during the 18th Century, a band of strong men known as the "Buaineain", used to go about Lewis in company of six, or seven, and settle themselves in various homes in various villages,
Being very strong, and of a very demanding nature they demanded to be fed in all the houses that they occupied, and it appears the people were afraid of them. They came to Voya Mhor and as usual they demanded free board and bed.
However there was one person in Voya Mhor who was not willing to give free board to his visitor.
One night after nightfall he tied his visitor with a strong rope, and at once he ordered all the other house¬holders to tie their own visitor.
This was done at once and they were shipped at once by boat to the mainland with their hands tied behind their backs, and were left above high water mark, west of Tornish. They were given a fearful dress¬ing down and so ended their notorious carry on.
The third story is about a man from Voya Mhor who wanted to go and see his girlfriend who resided at Reef.
Unfortunately all the boats in Voya were fishing so their man decided to swim to Reef which he managed to do. In due course he married, and they lived happily ever after.
The last story is about a notorious Bailiff who made self appointed laws, and was very ruthless in applying them to everyone that did not agree. We shall call him Mr X. Some of his rules were that no families were allowed to erect homes that were attached to one anoth¬er. However a certain couple in Voya Mhor, duly mar¬ried, and built a home for themselves attached to the in-laws home.
This was too much for the bailiff and forthwith he cleared them out of their newly erected house, and hav¬ing no other choice they emigrated to Canada where they prospered. Latterly the bailiff was relieved of his duties, and he also went to Canada — only to go to complete ruin. One of these days the lady of the house that was cleared out of her home in Voya Mhor was at the door of her home in Canada, and looking around she saw the former bailiff, having all the appearance of a tramp, coming to her door begging for a piece of bread.
Although she recognised him, he did not recognise her. Having begged for a piece of bread, she at once provided a substantial amount of bread, and when her former persecutor had finished eating, she asked him, "Did you enjoy that piece of bread?" "Yes", he said "And I was greatly in need of it."
"Well, well", she said, "Little did you realise, the day you cleared me and my husband out of our newly erected house in Voya Mhor, that you would be a beg¬gar at my door in Canada, begging for a piece of bread."
On hearing these words, the man cleared off, and tradition says he died shortly after this.
How true are the words of the late John Smith, Bard lar-siarder, who said in one of his poems- “Is Fhearr a’ Chòir na an Fhoill”
From “Eilean an Fhraoich” annual 1992
Constructing the Bernera Road by Kenneth J. Smith
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THE Island of Bernera was noted for many generations for its seafaring activities. Its men proved themselves as first class seamen. However, being in an island, they were deprived of the comfort that many other Lewis people had, the comfort of having a road to their doorstep. The nearest point of land where they could get to a road was either Breasclete or Callanish pier, and many a rough passage did people endure going in open boats to either place on their way to and from Stornoway.
In winter sometimes the journey could not be made. The inhabitants of the Crulivig district were in equal difficulty as they too had to go to either Callanish or Breasclete on their way to and from Stornoway.
Moves were made in the middle and late twenties to get a road constructed to Earshader which was the nearest point of land to Bernera. The late Mr Angus Maciver, 7 Breaclete, was head¬master of Leverburgh Public School, and the late Mr Angus Smith, Stornoway, councillor for Uig made many appeals to the County Council, and different Members of Parliament in order to get a grant to have the greatly needed road constructed. The first plan was to construct the road from Linshader to Lundale, and join up with the existing footpath in Lundale which went to the Crulivig river.
Word was received in Crulivig that a deputation of crofters from Crulivig, Earshader and Lundale would meet the two County engineers, the late Messrs. Gramme, and Robertson, at Linshader in order to plot a path for the proposed road.
These County engineers were duly met at Linshader, and they started off towards Lundale. However, on arrival at Tob, Lundale they discovered that a tremendous amount of work was involved in constructing a new road in this direction.
At this point the late Mr Kenneth Macleod, 1 Crulivig suggested that they should go to Ackersaid, so as to choose this as an alternative route. The party walked to Ackersaid and on inspecting the area, both Mr Cramme and Mr Robertson stated that this was the route to take. Shortly after this, the chosen course for the road was plotted out, and in due course the late Mr Angus Smith, Uig councillor, came to Bernera to preside over a meeting held above Bernera pier.
Mr Smith gave the news, which was greeted with cheers, that the County Council had given a grant for the construction of a road from Ackersaid to Earshader. Following this, another meeting was proposed in order to set in motion the method of construction.
Bothies
The workers were to be grouped in five sections as follows: Crulivig, Kirkibost and Breaclete, Tobson and Croir, Haclet, and Uig. The workers were to be housed in bothies, except the Kirkibost and Breaclete workers who had the benefit of having a brand new hut for themselves which was erected first of all at Ackersaid, and latterly at the Lundale bridge.
During the latter part of the construction of the road the Kirkibost and Breaclete workers were housed in an unused house at 5 Crulivig, while the Uig workers were housed in the old school house in Crulivig. All the work was done by hand and a lot of blasting had to take place. All the necessary tools were issued and the late Donald Macleod, Callanish (An Gobh Beag), was employed as blacksmith. After he discontinued, the late Mr Donald Macleod, 17 Uigen was the blacksmith for the remainder of the road construction.
It was the Haclet workers who had the first section joining the main road, and a lot of very difficult work had to be made in a bank that had to be erected near the junction. This bank is still known as "Banca Haclet". The whole route was in sections of 500 and 400 yards and continued this way till Earshader.
The building of the Lundale bridge was another difficult project due to the fact that eight solid steel girders 22 feet in length had to be taken to the site, and the late Donald Maclennan, Kneep, with the motor boat Rosebud SY 552 ferried these girders from Callanish to Lundale shore. Each section: Crulivig, Haclet, Uig, Kirkibost and Breaclete, and Tobson and Croir took these solid steel girders to the site of the bridge. It was John Macaulay, 19 Haclet who had the contract for this bridge and his labourers were Mr Angus Macdonald, 13 Tobson; Donald Macinnes, 6 Haclet; Kenneth Macdonald, 24 Valasay, and Finlay Maciver, 7 Breaclete, who is the only one living. Mr Macaulay also constructed the Crulivig bridge and his labourers were Mr Neil Macaulay, 4 Haclet and Mr John Macdonald, 3 Haclet.
Mr Malcolm Maciver, 11 Haclet was the general foreman during the whole period of construction, and the sections were as follows (we are only able to give an approximate number of workers as only a few of the actual workers are alive). Kirkibost and Breaclet (approximately 18 men): leading hand, first, John Macaulay, 21 Kirkibost; latterly, Murdo Macdonald, 16 Kirkibost. Crulivig (approximately 22 men): leading hand, Angus Macdonald, 3 Earshader. Tobson and Croir (approximately 24 men): leading hands, Tobson, Malcolm Macdonald, 3 Tobson; Croir, Angus Mackenzie, 3 Croir. Haclet (approximately 22 men): leading hand, John Macaulay, 19 Haclet. Uig (approximately 13 men): leading hand, Donald Maciver (Domhnall), Kneep.
Those involved had joined up with the existing footpath in Lundale, this gave the workers some help as the new road followed the path of the footpath by Crulivig river. It must be recorded that Mr John Macleod, who took over as County engineer after Mr Gramme, greatly helped the workers by making alterations in some places that would have involved considerable work, had the original course been followed.
The last section of the road from the Crulivig river to Earshader was constructed by the Haclet workers and they had to construct a bank east of 1 Earshader, and although it did not involve such heavy work as the bank they built at the junction of the road, still a tremendous amount of work had to go into it. The road which started in August, 1930 was completed in late March or April, 1932.
Celebrations
Special celebrations were made for the opening day of the road. The Bernera men provided boat sails in order to make a large marquee for refreshments and the Bernera ladies provided all the necessary refreshments, tea, sandwiches, etc., but before anyone partook of the refreshments, the road had to be declared open.
At this point the late Mr Angus Maciver, 7 Breaclete, headmaster of Leverburgh School, suggested that first of all the 100th Psalm should be sung to the tune of Old 100th, as a token of our thankfulness to the Most High for the measure of comfort we now had.
Following this, the late Mr T. B. Wilson Ramsey, MP for the Western Isles, cut the ribbon with a specially made silver scissors, and the road was declared open in the presence of hundreds of people.
This was followed by many speeches, including ones by the late Mr Duncan Macdonald, head¬master, North Tolsta; Captain lain M. Moffat Pender, who spoke in Gaelic.
The late Mr William Grant, editor of the Stornoway Gazette, short-handed all the speeches by all who were called on to speak, and they all appeared in the next issue of the Stornoway Gazette. The last speech was delivered by the late Donald Maciver (Domhnall Donn), Kneep, who concluded his speech with a short poem he had composed in Gaelic for the Western Isles MP, Mr T. B. Wilson Ramsey. Thereupon the crowd made for the marquee to enjoy the refreshments.
During the whole ceremony the Union Jack was flying at Aird a' Chaolais, and in attendance of the flag was the late John Macdonald, 5 Tobson. Just as the last of the party were entertained, a very strong wind, accompanied by hail, blew up and nearly took the marquee down, but one and all had been duly entertained and the marquee suffered no damage,
With the opening of the Bernera Road a new chapter opened in the history of Bernera. The difficulties endured in the pre-road and pre-bridge days are all now past history.
Appeared in Eilean an Fhraoich annual, date not known